Baja's Honest Winemaker

Iyo mumwe munhu anowedzera muValle de Guadalupe ari kutarisa iyo organic wine scene.

Zvisizvo zvivakwa zvezvivakwa, izvo zvakagadzirirwa hukuru, zvibatanidzana neimba duku dzemadokoro nemapaki ematayari sezvo iwe uchidzika pasi Highway 1 muBaja, Mexico.

Chikamu chekufambisa chiyeuchidzo chechiitiko chinobva kuMufambiro Wakafa , ine graffiti yakavhara zvivako pose pose uye ine mweya unotenderedza. Uye imwe chikamu chekufambisa chinotenderera nemapokisi emasikirwo asingatauri nemhizha. Kubvira kuTijuana kusvika kuEnsenada, mataundi mashomanana akakura ari pakati ari achiri kubudirira uye akasiyiwa ari oga nechokudzidzira uye kuputika kwechivako chimbadzi muna 2008.

Iko pueblos ichiri kutarisa zvakafanana neyakaita makore 30 kusvika ku40 apfuura uye zvisingashamisi kuva nzvimbo isingakanganwiki yezvakatipoteredza kuenderera mberi kune zvinyorwa zveupenyu hwemvura uye zvidzidzo zvemugumo.

Muna 2012, Cancun-sized resort yakagadzirwa kuti ivakwe kuEast Coast yeBaja kuCabo Pulmo. Asi zvibvumirano zvekuvaka zvakaregererwa nekuda kwechido chemunharaunda yekudzivirira gulf chete coral reef. Mushure mekuparara kwekufambira mberi, NGOs dzaive nedzimwe nzira dzakagadziriswa kuti dzigadzirire kuchengetedza mari yekuwana mari, hupfumi hwekubata hove hwakanyanya kutongerwa, uye Baja Peninsula yakava nzvimbo yekufambisa zvakare.

Kufambira mberi kusvika muna 2014. The Wall Street Journal inodzinga nyaya pamusoro pekubudirira kwewaini yewaini muBaja. Vatorwa vanotanga kudzokera kunharaunda zvakare, ikozvino, kuzoedza ruoko rwavo pakukura. Kunyange zvakadaro, ndevaya vari kutonga mutambo uye zvakakodzera zvakadaro; ivo vakaneta kupera kwehupfumi uye vakave nekukwirira pakushandisa zvigadziro zvepanyika kumarudzi.

Vakawanda vanouya kuBaja kuti vafambe uye vanakidzwe nehove itsva. Ensenda's croise port plops mueni wayo kusvika mukati memwoyo weguta iri. Munharaunda inofanana neHussong's, nzvimbo yekuberekerwa yeMargarita, neLa Guerrerense, tori ya tostada Anthony Bourdain inonzi imwe yenzvimbo dzakanakisisa munyika kuti udye, hutongi hukuru.

Kunyange nevaya vanoedza uye vechokwadi vanofambira, nzvimbo yeValle de Guadalupe inoita basa guru mukusimudzira mishonga yekushanyirwa munzvimbo.

Minda yemizambiringa muValle de Guadalupe yakadzoka kare kare kuma1520 uye iyo inonzi inyika yekare yewaini ye Mexico. Mamiriro okunze akakwana kukura mazambiringa nemvura yakaoma, inopisa uye Pacific Ocean pedyo. Vakuri munharaunda iyi vakatanga kutonga nyika muma1970, asi hazvina kusvika munguva ichangopfuura vanhu vakaona uye Baja akava Napa Valley yeMexico. Chimwe chezvinhu zvinoita kuti nzvimbo yacho ive yakasiyana ndeyekuti varimi vanogona kuenzanisa zvinyorwa zvemawaini uye havazikanwi nekukohwa chero rupiro rwemazambiringa. Kubudirira muMupata ichiri chitsva, saka kune nzvimbo yekutamba uye kusimbisa huzivi.

Hugo D'Acosta ndiye baba vewaini yewaini muBaja. Akaberekerwa muMexico City, akadzidza enology muFrance, uye akasika iyo yaisina purogiramu La Escualita, chikwata chekutsvaga winemakers, paakadzokera kuMexico. Swiss enologist Thomas Egli iye zvino anotarisira chikoro. Gore roga roga vanogamuchira kirasi duku yevadzidzi vanoda kudzidza tsika. Chivakwa, chakavakwa nemunun'una waHugo Alejandro, chakaitwa zvachose kunze kwezvakadzikidzwa uye chimwe chikamu chekudzidzisa kunowanikwa kune biodynamics (terroir) mukukura.

La Escualita yakasimbisa pachayo sechisimbiso chekuchengetedzwa kwevanhu vanogara vachitsvaga kupinda mumutambo wewaini.

Imwe yezvinyorwa zve D'D'Acosta ndiPaul Pijoan, uyo ane Vinos Pijoan, chivigiro chekutengesa munharaunda yacho. Pau, chiremba wezvechiremba wekurasikirwa, akawana winemaking sechido chekuita chete kuti aone kuti akanga ane chokwadi chaicho. Akakurumidza kuva chikamu che "chizvarwa chitsva" chevintners uye iye zvino ane bhizinesi rakabudirira uye rinokurudzira. Kana iwe uchitaura nomumwe munhu ari munharaunda yacho, vanoziva kuti Pau ndiani ari wezera rake neAng Acosta uye zvakare nokuti akakwanisa kuumba yake pasaina mawaini.

Apo iwe unosvika padiki (maeka mashanu) asi nemirima yemizambiringa iwe unokukwazisa nevakawanda veimba yekuchengetedza imbwa dzinonakidza. Pau, mudzimai wake Lenora, nemwanasikana Paula ndivo vanochengetedza. Zviri pachena kuti vanodurura mwoyo yavo nemweya mubhizimisi.

Vanokukwazisa nokudziya uye vanoda chaizvo kugovana navo mutsigiri wavo.

Vinos Pijoan ndeimwe yezvishoma zvekugadzira zviyo munzvimbo iyo yakasarudza kugovera hupenyu mukukura kwavo. Kunze kwekutsvaga sulfites (chikafu chekukura mazambiringa), haashandisi mishonga inouraya kana makemikari akaoma mukugadzirwa. Iyo Pijoan slogan ndiyo "Wakatendeseka Wines", kudai kunogona kuratidzwa nenzira iyo mazambiringa anogadzirwa. Kubva kumudzimai uye nekuchera nyuchi kune munda wekurima wekurima, Pijoans inoita chimiro chechimiro mumunda wemizambiringa uye kuvimba nezvinhu zvepanyama zvinokurudzira kugadzirwa kwavo. Vakaisa zvisikwa mumiti yavo sechinhu chinokonzera mishonga pamusoro pemakonzo uye kunyange imbwa dzinobatsira kuchengetedza kunze kwezvisikwa zvisingadiwi. Vanowanidzawo nenyuchi mbiri uye vanotengesa huchi hwekuno iyo yakaitwa kubva kwavari.

Syrah, Merlot, Grenache, uye Cabernet zviyero zvemazambiringa ayo Pijoans anokura. Mazhinji ewaini anotumidzwa zita revakadzi avo vave nechinzvimbo chikuru paupenyu hwaPau uye "anoedza kuenzanisa unhu uye mararamiro emunhu wese wemhuri kune ivo maererano newaini."

Pau unhu huzhinji hwehukama hwemamiriro avo ezvinhu hunoshandisa kumwanasikana wake Paula chido chokubata nyika nehanya. Nyanzvi yezvekudyara kwegungwa nemabhizimisi, hazvishamisi kuti mamiriro aPauro mune sciences anowedzera kuda kwake nyika. Apo vabereki vake vakatenga mujenya, iye akauya muchikepe kuti abatsire kumhanya uye munda wacho wakava purogiramu yake yemhuka. Anongoshanda chete nezvizvarwa zvekuzvarwa zvakabururuka kubva kumakomo uye anoziva kurwisana nemarudzi asingaverengeki kusashandiswa kwemakemikari.

Sezvo mvura isingawanzoitiki muMupata, vashandi vanogadzirisa zvinhu vanofanira kuenzaniswa zvikuru mukushandisa kwavo kwemvura uye kazhinji vanonetseka nezvirimwa zvavo. Nemhaka yeiyi nyaya, maPijoans chete anongogadzira zvigadzirwa zvemazana 2500, achivabvumira kushanda nekuwedzera kutarisirwa uye kukura chete izvo zvinodiwa. Vanotsigirawo vagari vomunharaunda yavo, vachitenga mazambiringa avo ose kubva kune minda yemizambiringa iri pedyo. Kunze kwekutora michero, Pijoans vanoona vose vevashandi vavo mhuri, uye munhu wese anotamba chikamu chakakosha mukubudirira kwebhizimisi.

IPijoans inoshuva kubudisa mazambiringa anoratidza unhu hwenyika uye mhuri yavo ndizvo chaizvo zvinoita kuti zvive zvakasiyana. Vanonzwisisa kuti mutambo wenguva refu ndeyekukudza nekushanda pamwe nemamiriro ezvinhu sezvazviri, panzvimbo yekuedza kuwedzera. Iyi mafungiro ihwowo ndiyo ichazosimbisa kuedza kwenguva sezvo Baja inoenderera mberi nekushanduka sevanhu vanozivikanwa vanoenda kunzvimbo.